Melting Pot Bolivia also supports educational projects like Manq'a on sustainable and healthy nutrition for children (Credit: Melting Pot Foundation)

In 2010, Danish celebrity chef Claus Meyer and the NGO Ibis, established Foundation Melting Pot Bolivia and in 2012 opened the GUSTU Food School and Restaurant in La Paz, Bolivia. Profits from the gourmet restaurant are reinvested into the Bolivian food movement and in educating young Bolivians to healthier diets. Meyer’s initiative aims to spur economic growth, tourism and exports, support local farmers and give new impulse to Bolivian cuisine while promoting sustainable agricultural practices and preserving local agrobiodiversity. The initiative has given rise to Bolivia’s Gastronomic Integration Movement (MIGA) and its Gastronomic Manifesto.

The problem

Like many countries worldwide, Bolivia is experiencing the rapid loss of food culture with the consequent deterioration of rural and urban diets. Traditional foods are being supplanted by imported foodstuffs and local varieties, which are often considered “food for the poor” and are being cultivated less and less, to the extent that some are in danger of extinction. Lack of knowledge on their use and preparation along with limited seasonality and availability also restricts their wider promotion and marketing.

Agricultural biodiversity

Unlike neighbouring Peru, Bolivia lacks a strong culinary tradition. However, due to the range in ecogeographical zones, it is home to a variety of food crops with unexplored nutritional potential. With the exception of quinoa (Chenopodium quinoa Willd.) and amaranth (Amaranthus caudatus L.), which have experienced a recent boom in sales in the US and Europe due to their recently recognized health properties, others crops remain largely unheard of outside the Andean region and scarcely available in local restaurants. Among these: the grain cañahua (Chenopodium pallidicaule Aellen), the legume tarwi (Lupinus mutabilis Lindl.), tuber varieties such as oca (Oxalis tuberosa Molina), papalisa (Ullucus tuberosus Caldas) and isaño (Tropaeolum tuberosum Ruiz & Pav.). Not to mention the edible roots ahipa (Pachyrhizus ahipa (Wedd.) Parodi), yacón (Polymnia sonchifolia Griseb.), mauka (Mirabilis expansa (Ruiz & Pav.) Standl.), achira (Canna edulis Ker Gawl.) and arracacha (Arracacia xanthorrhiza Bancr.). Many of these crops have excellent nutritional properties, are rich in minerals, proteins, vitamins and can be easily transformed. The protein content of cañahua (17.60%) for instance is much higher than rice (9.9%) or wheat (8.6%). Yacón contains only non digestible sugars (fructose) and is therefore indicated for diabetics, achira is rich in starch and sugars and a good source of vitamin A. The starch cells of arracacha are small and easy to digest, with high iron, calcium, vitamin A and B3 content, making it a suitable food for children. Being gluten free it is also a good alternative for celiac-affected people.

The Food School project

The Food School is workshop-based and trains promising 15-19 years olds from underprivileged backgrounds who are enrolled in culinary projects supported by the La Paz Municipal Council and the FAUTAPO Foundations and culinary training centres. Considerable emphasis is placed on the promotion and use of local ingredients, seasonality and indigenous food culture, to the extent that the school grows its own ingredients just outside La Paz. The visibility of once neglected crops is gradually being enhanced through the development of gourmet recipes for the restaurant. Products for the menu are chosen based on seasonal availability and following consultations with local experts from the ANDESCROP project - a joint initiative between the Faculty of Life Sciences of Copenhagen University and the Universidad Nacional Mayor de San Andrés of La Paz and the Bolivian Fundación Para la Promoción e Investigación de Productos Andinos – PROINPA. Scientific advice is also provided by the IFAD-NUS III project managed by Bioversity International.

Impact
Meyer’s initiative has given rise to Bolivia’s Gastronomic Integration Movement (MIGA), Bolivia’s first ever Food Symposium and its Gastronomic Manifesto, which is based on some of the following principles:

  • Highlight the diversity of indigenous foods and associated traditional knowledge, and promote the sustainable production of these products by linking them to Bolivian gastronomy
  • Develop gourmet recipes that are healthy and environmentally-friendly
  • Revive and protect regional food systems as part of the national cultural heritage
  • Develop Bolivia’s gastronomy based on regional provenance, harvesting season and traditional preparation methods
  • Develop recipes based on traditional cooking methods and foods while taking into account global culinary trends.

Further opportunities

In 2014 Gustu plans to open a deli and food hall to promote indigenous foods. The 2nd National Food Fair - Tambo Bolivia should also be held in 2014 gathering students, chefs, farmers and experts in the field of agrobiodiversity to exchange knowledge and experiences.

Further information

http://www.meltingpot-bolivia.org/
http://www.bloomberg.com/news/2013-03-08/noma-owner-opens-gustu-in-bolivia-to-replicate-no-1-copenhagen.html
http://www.clausmeyer.dk/en/melting_pot_foundation/cooking_school_in_bolivia.html