Seaweed in the Azores

In 2012 Designing Food Cultures set out to document the traditional knowledge and use of edible seaweed in the Azores. Working closely with local communities, such as the Fishermen Wives’ Association, and with professional schools, such as the Professional School of Praia da Vitória and the School of Tourism and Hospitality of Ponta Delgada, the project organised a series of workshops in which community members and student chefs could share knowledge and learn about local edible seaweeds and create old and new recipes using these algae.

The problem
In the Azores, barriers to seaweed consumption are mostly linked to lack of awareness of the varieties of edible seaweed existing in the Portuguese archipelago and of their nutritional and culinary potential. Until recently, seaweed was considered ‘food for the poor’, as it was once consumed in times of food scarcity, but opportunities to promote these algae are on the rise as younger generations become exposed to international cuisine and dishes such as sushi. Nori seaweed, used to prepare sushi, is in fact a Porphyra species commonly found growing in the Azorean coasts.

Agrobiodiversity
The Porphyra genus includes the Atlantic equivalent of Japanese nori, a seaweed family with high nutrition potential. Low in fats, sugars and calories and high in fiber, seaweed is rich in highly digestible proteins and essential fatty acids (linoleic, α-linolenic and eicosapentaenoic acids), minerals (particularly potassium, phosphorus, magnesium and iron) and vitamins (A, C, niacin, folic acid and B12). Despite its abundance on the Portuguese coast, seaweed doesn’t feature highly in Portuguese cuisine with the exception of some communities in the Azores. In these communities Porphyra leucostica, known locally as “duck weed”, is gathered and fried or incorporated in soups, cakes and omelettes. Another species, Osmundea pinnatifida is traditionally preserved in vinegar and consumed accompanying fried fish.

The project
When Azorean designer Sónia Matos first decided to write a cookbook documenting the traditional use of Porphyra in her homeland she soon discovered that the foraging and consumption of edible seaweed, once common among local communities, had drastically reduced. Recipes and traditional knowledge on Porphyra and other edible seaweed were hard to come by. This led to ‘Designing Food Cultures’, a project developed with scientific backstopping from local marine biologist and macro-algae specialist Dr. Ana Neto to bring edible seaweed back to its former glory. As part of the project, cookery workshops were held engaging community members to share knowledge and recipes on four types of local seaweed (Porphyra sp., Ulva rigida, Osmundea pinnatifida and Fucus spiralis), while in others student chefs were tasked with developing new recipes using seaweed. Results from the workshops will form the basis of Sónia Matos’ cookbook, which, among other things, will promote healthier eating habits and a more sustainable use of local resources in the Azores.

Impact

  • Workshop participants have started foraging edible seaweed, preparing dishes and disseminating knowledge of local resources during culinary events

Lessons Learned

  • Food choices are determined by the availability of foods but also by cultural and social traditions
  • Food must be culturally-acceptable for it to be successfully promoted within a community
  • Culinary traditions should not be preserved per se, but used to uphold regional identities and cultural heritage as well as promoting healthier lifestyles while safeguarding the environment

Further opportunities
Seaweed in the Azores grows wild and is currently limited by seasonality. There is much scope for the promotion of the nutritional value of these foods and opportunities for local businesses to develop seaweed value chains. However, although some seaweed species can be farmed, there is still limited technological infrastructure for sustainable seaweed farming in the Azores.