Traditional root crops
In the quest to promote healthier eating habits among Indonesians, the Centre for Food and Nutrition Studies of the University of Gadjah Mada (UGM) is documenting food diversity and traditional knowledge among communities in Yogyakarta. Closely linked to cultural and religious festivals, food culture is very much alive in rural communities where 10 local root crops are still widely consumed by young and old. Efforts are being made to establish links between these foods and healthier diets and to promote these local alternatives to imported convenience foods.
The problem
Once famous for its high life expectancy, the population of Yogyakarta in Indonesia is experiencing a steep rise in the incidence of diabetes and heart disease, largely due to changes in diets and lifestyle. Rice has supplanted traditional root crops as the main source of carbohydrates and its consumption has risen steadily reaching 115 kg/capita/year (2012), almost twice average consumption worldwide (60 kg/capita/year). Furthermore, households depend heavily on instant noodles as their core food, leading to reliance on wheat imports.
Agrobiodiversity
Agricultural biodiversity surveys carried out in the rural areas of Yogyakarta have shown that ten root crops are still widely used and grown in homegardens. These root crops are uwi/purple yam (Dioscorea alata), gembili/lesser yam (Dioscorea esculenta L.), “garut”/arrowroot (Maranta arundinacea), “ganyong”/Indian shot (Canna edulis or indica), “gadung” (Dioscorea hispida), “kleci” (Coleus tuberosus), “suweg”/Elephant foot yam (Amorphophallus campanulatus) and “kimpul”/purple stem taro (Xanthosoma violaceum) as well cassava and sweet potatoes.
Nutritionally-speaking most of these root crops (except for arrowroot) are lower in energy and carbohydrate content than rice, however, they contain much higher quantities of essential micronutrients which are important for healthy and balanced diets.
Cassava, the most popular of these crops, is commonly found on local market stalls and cassava-based foods are consumed by both young and old at least 3 to 4 times a week, either as staple food or snacks. Preparation methods vary according to geographic location but exist both in fermented and non-fermented form with important probiotic properties. Tape, a sweet or sour alcoholic paste is common to both regions. The fermented foods (gatot and growol) contain lactic acid bacteria and are consumed in combination with vegetables, coconut oil cake or tempeh (traditional fermented soy bean). The two staple foods are rice substitutes and normally consumed when rice production is low. Tape is prepared using boiled cassava fermented with a mold culture of Saccharomices cerevisae and is consumed both as a snack or pudding.
The project
The Centre for Food and Nutrition Studies interviewed communities in Yogyakarta to find out just how much knowledge about traditional foods existed. What transpired is the intimate connection existing between the environment and the people of Yogyakarta, who firmly believe their well-being to be dependent upon protecting the environment and all that is connected to it, foods included. Traditional foods are thus prominent in religious rituals that celebrate life, death and harvest time. In many of the Javanese ceremonies a food pyramid called tumpeng is prepared using steamed rice accompanied by seasonal fruits and vegetables, root crops, boiled eggs and chicken curry. Interestingly, its composition is similar to the Asian Diet Pyramid.
Following these findings, the Centre has been active in promoting traditional foods among schools and communities. Trainings have been held targeting school teachers and nutritionists, as well as vocational schools to provide knowledge on nutritious, diverse, balanced and safe diets. Training has been provided in food preparation and storage, cooking and nutritional value of food, as well as on adequate nutritional intake and formulating family menus. Food packaging, food additives and food safety courses were also provided.
Impact
There is keen interest from the Indonesian government to find alternative sources of carbohydrates for food security. Although attention is turning to traditional root crops, there is still limited evidence of their nutritional and health properties, with most of the research emphasis being place on cassava and sweet potato.
To complement the production of rice and wheat and contribute to developing national food stocks, the Centre is trying to gain government support for the cultivation of these roots and tubers on unexploited agricultural land or for tree-crop intercropping in young forest plantations. Suggestions for uptake include providing incentives to farmers who wish to test the cultivation of these crops on their land.
The Centre has also developed a system for traditional food mapping that links traditional food with cultural, social, and historical, as well as science and technological aspects. Several books on urban food heritage have been published in collaboration with local governments. Mapping of local traditional foods has fostered community involvement, partnership building, financial support, product development and promotion. It has set new strategies that enable collaboration among groups such as food producers, urban heritage organizations, university, government, cultural community as well as the tourism industry.
Lessons learned
- The conservation of traditional foods encourages the preservation of intangible cultural heritage
- Traditional foods possess cultural, aesthetic, educational, environmental, social, historical as well as economic values
- The promotion of traditional foods requires increased consumer awareness about their value
- Government and private sector support need to be sought to foster further research in this area
- Quality assurance labels, such as the Designation of origin labels (DOLs), can ensure traditional can compete on the market and be integrated in globalized dietary culture